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Spiral Stairs, Straight Stairs, Lifts and Bridges
The_Black_Rieder
#1 Posted : Saturday, March 24, 2018 1:07:08 PM(UTC)


Rank: Veteran Forum Member

Joined: 9/26/2008(UTC)
Posts: 7,419
Spiral Stairs 1/3 Posts
Creation date Sat 24th March, 2018 - Monday 26th, 2018

Lately I've had quite a lot of questions regarding Spiral Stairs, Straight Stairs and Lifts. I have health problems that hinder me but I'm going to attempt to make sense of the confusion some are facing. Today I would like to address Spiral Stairs. Sifupeter very nicely allowed his own program out into the public domain. First of all this makes a kind of scaffold made up of small Flat Plane pieces which are crossed at about 45 degrees by an identical piece the same size. Once they are laid out in the exact positions and tested the proper stairs that people see are added. The chassis or scaffold is then made invisible. The floor must be a matching Flat Plane scaffold and prefarably only 1.00 wide nearest the top of the stairs, best do the same at the bottom if it's not a system floor.

Here I prepared one earlier, SCAFFOLD STEPS ONLY not the finished product, and if you have a spare Template 1058 Basic Zaby Layout 1 with kitchen V3 you can paste all these in and make the scaffold of the floor, all the scaffold steps and it should just about work. Later I will show with the rails, posts and the real stairs you see at the end when all of this has been made invisible.

The biggest problem seems to be making the 1st step, the starter step. Stand on the floor where the top step needs to go and press F2. Look at that for the Y axis NOT the Prop edit. Raise the specified size starter step up to neck height. Jump on it so your waist is embedded in it and you are suspended in the air. Then bring it down until it reaches the same setting you read from the Y axis in F2. Example Y axis F2 shows 1220, you raise the step to head height, jump on it so it's around your waist and stay on it slowly pressing the down arrow to 1220 or whatever reading you took. Then jump off and move that step so it touches the outer perimeter red line in Peters program. You then generate the other steps from that. The starter step is the main one and you work TOP down.....

___________________________________________________________________

Specifics in answer to questions lately re the Spiral Stair Program. I will link it here too.

https://forums.utherverse.com/yaf_postst121155_Stairs-are-making-me-crazy---Help-pklease.aspx

You can hover the mouse and drag the default stairs around the page. You can zoom in and out using the mouse wheel. You can maximise the page if it helps but it will not remember its position (That doesn't bother me as I use 2 screens).
Click on the first (top) step, the starter step. If you make changes click on another step then back to the first one, same with the other steps and it activates the change or you may get false readings and settings. If you put down your 1st step and the next one seems to go behind it but you wanted it in front it's just the step is back to front. they have a leading and a trailing edge. Example your ROTATION is 90 and the step appears behind instead of in front, change the 90 to 270 (adding a 180 degree change) and it will go in front then, all other steps will need changing if you used the settings anywhere.

The "in Rotation Y by" can make the steps spiral left/right by using a positive or a negative number. ie 14 may go right and -14 go left
In scale X means if the top step is yay long it might go -yay long on the next step if you make it -0.2 EG top step 1.2 long and next step 1.00 long.
Click on the last step and click "add" you get more steps.
Press and hold shift and click on all steps after the 1st one. Set -7 in rotation and they all get set -7 instead of 1 step at a time to change

LR is Left Rail, RR is Right Rail
LP and RP are left and right posts
S is the finished steps that you actually see

HFP is a Horizontal step or Flat Plane. AFP is an angled Flat Plane. Put the two together and they make your crossed pairs as in the pics shown.

_____________________________________________

Suggested work pattern if using the program to create a spiral stair;

* Make the starter step, get the correct working height as detailed in here (it's actually 570+1=571) by jumping on it and lowering yourself to the reading in F2, when taken from the floor (Y Axis) you cut out the mathematics. When you first create Flat Plane it's invisible at the top and black/blue at the bottom. DO NOT FLIP IT. Flipping it may stop the collide working. Go in the State Tab and set it to show both sides.

* Use the program and click on the 1st step, type in the settings from the Prop Editor.

* Again use the program and click on the 2nd step down, but click on HFP to get the flat scaffold steps (not S). Now do all the flat steps to the floor in the positions from the program

* Repeat again for all the angled scaffold steps using AFP

* test ample times

Then and only then go through LP, RP, S, LR and RR to put in all the pieces you do see.

* Test several times

Then and only then make every black/blue Flat Plane (here referred to as the scaffold) invisible in the State Tab.

* Lay a Court floor or similar over the Flat Plane floor and texture with cached image. DO NOT MAKE IT COLLIDABLE!!!

* Test all several times.

This is just about the work flow that will get you through it. You can click on the numbers in Peters program then right click in prop edit and paste or use CTRL V to paste. In Peters program you only need to click the number to copy it. Once you create a stair that works give it a name in Peters program and hit the Save button. Then you will have the default and the new staircase. You can reproduce it in a similar property and sometimes in another not identical property by adding or skipping steps. Make sure you save any new sets of stairs you create in his program. He has done a fantastic job of this.

NOTE: This may also work on other properties with the same room, use trial and error to find out. If anything they may be orientated a different direction only but I doubt it.


This is a WIP, work in progress
NOTE: My nick and image are from a company. That company allows people to use them both as long as they get permission and a licence. I have that and a certificate to prove it.

"These are not the Druids you are looking for..."
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The_Black_Rieder
#2 Posted : Saturday, March 24, 2018 1:09:16 PM(UTC)


Rank: Veteran Forum Member

Joined: 9/26/2008(UTC)
Posts: 7,419
Spiral Stairs 2/3 Posts








Scaffold Floor to upper and scaffold steps

You can see all the data and coordinates here if you wish. you may be able to recreate it without the program if in the same property. Click the
NOTE: My nick and image are from a company. That company allows people to use them both as long as they get permission and a licence. I have that and a certificate to prove it.

"These are not the Druids you are looking for..."
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The_Black_Rieder
#3 Posted : Saturday, March 24, 2018 1:14:14 PM(UTC)


Rank: Veteran Forum Member

Joined: 9/26/2008(UTC)
Posts: 7,419
Spiral Stairs 3/3 Posts

Posts, Rails, real stairs you see

One problem I found with the program at least for me. If you save a staircase it loses the -7 or -14 orientation you entered and/or the step down in sze from the top step to the rest of the steps ie 1.20 long and next step is -0.2, it loses that. It may be I had it maximised and that caused a problem. No Stairs (steps) are collidable. Only Crossed Pairs and Flat Plane Floors are collidable. If you put a Court Floor over the top of the Flat Plane for the texture then DO NOT MAKE IT COLLIDABLE!

* My Work Flow, you use what works best for you. I put all the left posts in first working from top to bottom. Checking the POSitions, ROTation and SCAle were all correct on each individual one. Take your time, double check, make sure your eyes don't drop down a line as well as off to sleep.

* Next, I do all the right posts in as above.

* On to the rails and check sizes, rotations particularly carefully. If the staircase spirals right to left looking down from the top then your right side will have longer rails than your left side so please check and double check they are correct. I entered them on paper then built the stair so I know they are very close to correct, if not spot on.

* Either make the crossed pairs invisible in the State Tab now (don't delete them!!) or wait to the end. I wait to the end so I can see the rails and posts flow the right way.

* Finally the stairs you really see, put them in step by step. they are all the same size. Only the POSition and ROTations change. Watch for -numbers and put them in too.

* The second but last step I raised it a little as it was under ground.

* the last step I did not put in as it was deeper than the second to last step. These are not collide set so you do not walk on them anyway. You only look like you do and you're not about to walk or look like you walk on an underground step are you?
_____________________________________________________

You can just copy these and paste in to create the same staircase in the same property. It may work in similar ones too.To see the data and coordinates just click the

_________________________________________________________________

Pictures are here;















Check out the finished Spiral Staircase here, only the textured floor to add. this may close up the gap in the floor a little but should not be set collidable as it interferes with the stairs.

vww://utherverse.vww/@111342

Work in progress
NOTE: My nick and image are from a company. That company allows people to use them both as long as they get permission and a licence. I have that and a certificate to prove it.

"These are not the Druids you are looking for..."
3 users thanked The_Black_Rieder for this useful post.
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The_Black_Rieder
#4 Posted : Saturday, March 24, 2018 1:15:21 PM(UTC)


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About Straight Stairs

Straight stairs can be one run, multiple runs, even ones that go around corners. The typical way to make them involves a ramp that is later made invisible. The bottom of the ramp has a low angle to the floor and usually works "as is". Whereas the top of the ramp has to have its top red collide line touch the top of the collide line from the flat floor it meets up with. It only needs the tops to meet as they are 570+1=571 high and that is where the avatar is suspended from.

NOTE: An alternative to straight stairs can be to make them from "crossed pairs" of Flat Planes as in the Spiral Stairs construction but this involves more parts than a simple ramp. The advantage though is the program Peter supplied shows all of the coordinates. Another idea is bridges made from crossed pairs and these often work better than slanted ramps. One of these are shown further down here in the post about bridges.









Make it yourself or copy part/all of this into the Prop Editor. Press the


View at: vww://utherverse.vww/@204149

Work in progress
NOTE: My nick and image are from a company. That company allows people to use them both as long as they get permission and a licence. I have that and a certificate to prove it.

"These are not the Druids you are looking for..."
3 users thanked The_Black_Rieder for this useful post.
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The_Black_Rieder
#5 Posted : Saturday, March 24, 2018 1:16:24 PM(UTC)


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Joined: 9/26/2008(UTC)
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About lifts

You can simply put a lift door against a wall. Make it more elaborate with a lift shaft. Make a glass lift shaft and lift, any number of options. You can stand in the lift and press the button or stand outside and press it. They are all a combination of the same thing and here is a simple one.

Get or make a lift door and store it somewhere other than PB, record a link to the picture so you can use it in UV/RLC within the Prop Edit as a Cached Image on a Wall, Sign or similar. Make a flat panel in an art program, store it somewhere safe, try to avoid PB. You need the link to make the sign visible on the wall. Make one with the numbers like this one or similar on the wall next to the lift;



Put one on every floor and stand about 3 steps in front like the picture above. In that position you're unlikely to get the camera angle wrong or embedded in the wall. The picture above shows roughly the position to make a StartPoint when stood with back to the lift door on every floor. You want to look like you just made an exit from the lift behind you, hence facing away from it and not looking at it. Make a Startpoint called ExitGround, ExitFloor1, ExitFloor2, ExitCafe. One on each floor and any special places like this Cafe on the roof. That way when you look in the StartPoints you know exactly what each one is and what it does.



Now get a Multicoloured Sphere and place one in front of every floor number on your sign, same level as the number so when you go to click the number you'll actually click on an invisible Multicoloured Sphere when they are set and tested.



Now go to the Ground Floor number panel. Click on every Multicoloured Sphere one at a time and add a script to it to go to an owned property. Set it to that property and the number 1 to ExitLevel1, number 2 to ExitLevel2 and finally the Cafe number 3 or the word Cafe to ExitCafe. On the Ground floor you don't need an exit for the Ground floor. Do all the buttons including ground on Level 2 but not the number 2 button because you're already on that floor and don't need an exit. Go up to the Cafe or floor 3 and do all the buttons except the Cafe as you're already on that floor. Test every floor and every button works. Once done make all the Multicoloured Spheres on every floor invisible so you see the numbers properly on the Floor Level Sign.



Another way is open door images and close door images. Instead of opening doors it puts you inside the lift. Vice versa for close doors. You can set Startpoints to take you up in the lift. Imagination is the key. No pics yet because PB destroyed my simple glass lift you ride in. Startpoints can be used to get ride on escalators too but that's a whole different story. this store actually has them. stand on the bottom of the moving escalator and it automatically takes the avatar to the top hitting about every 3rd step going up. Same coming down, it hits the avatar on about the 3rd step down each time til it reaches the bottom.

I did use keys as another way on a keyboard. Click the key number to go somewhere or open a set door. You can come up with plenty of options if you put your mind to it. Again, your imagination is the limit.
NOTE: My nick and image are from a company. That company allows people to use them both as long as they get permission and a licence. I have that and a certificate to prove it.

"These are not the Druids you are looking for..."
3 users thanked The_Black_Rieder for this useful post.
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The_Black_Rieder
#6 Posted : Saturday, March 24, 2018 2:44:00 PM(UTC)


Rank: Veteran Forum Member

Joined: 9/26/2008(UTC)
Posts: 7,419
Do I walk across floors and do my feet tread on steps/stairs?

It doesn't matter where you go anywhere in UV/RLC1 you DO NOT STAND ON FLOORS AND STAIRS! You are suspended 570
+1 = 571 above the floor, regardless of avatar size. The way it works is you only look as if you are walking on the floor, standing, walking up/down stairs.



It's a darned good illusion though. This is often the trouble with straight stairs in that you glide 571 across a flat floor then begin to go up a ramp/stairs still at 571. That is a small angle change and simple transition especially if off a system floor. But when that angle gets to the top, to a flat floor it's a much greater angle and the two red colliders meet at the top to maintain that transition from angle to flat and keep the 571 height suspension.

In the picture above the crossed pairs carry the avatar up then across the flat, up the angle, across the flat, up the angle, across the flat to the top and vice versa coming down. The finished product includes a set of stairs that go under the crossed pairs and make the illusion you walk on them. Same as a ramp in minute movements makes you go up, forward, up forward until the top. You just don't readily notice it's happening as the illusion takes place the brain is showing it as walking up the steps/stairs.

Go take a look;

vww://utherverse.vww/@462775#2ndFloor
NOTE: My nick and image are from a company. That company allows people to use them both as long as they get permission and a licence. I have that and a certificate to prove it.

"These are not the Druids you are looking for..."
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The_Black_Rieder
#7 Posted : Monday, March 26, 2018 2:38:17 PM(UTC)


Rank: Veteran Forum Member

Joined: 9/26/2008(UTC)
Posts: 7,419
Bridges

Some folks struggle with bridges and especially angled ramps but this is a fine alternative.







As you can see, a simple construction. The bridge on the left consists of two crossed pairs of Flat Plane, then 6 flat pieces of Flat Plane, followed by two more crossed pairs made from, yes you guessed it Flat Plane. The crossed pairs make you go up and down to the flat tops.

See here for the settings I used, but you will have to amend these ones for your property and use some trial and error to complete. It does give you the basic idea though.


NOTE: Help me position them:

A way to help with working out positions of the crossed pairs. The inner crossed pairs flat piece will be 570+1=571 off the ground (570 +1 for the prop=571), but measured in F2 (box lower right) not in the Prop Edit. To save the Math here's a little trick. Get a piece of Flat Plane measured as above and raise it to your neck height. Take a floor recording, from pressing F2, of the Y axis only when you stand on the floor. Let's say it's 1200 for arguments sake. Jump on the Flat Plane so you dangle from the waist from the Flat Plane itself. Watching F2 move the piece and you down in the Prop Editor until it reaches 1200. If you go to 1199 or less by mistake you may be OK but if you fall off you will have to start back at neck height so take your time and go carefully. F2 is measuring you so by checking for 1200 it's the floor + you=570+1 above the floor! You can test it is correct by trying to walk through it. It should allow you to walk through but stop you if you take it one click up, bring it back down 1 click to where it was once tested. If your floor is 550 then use that, if it's -230 then use that instead but always check it in F2, not the Prop Edit.

You can make 6 flat pieces from the flat off the one you tested and put these so they slightly overlap each other. The cross for each will match the POSition of the Flat Plane you used first but rotated to 45.00 in the Y axis. Now you can clone the first piece for the other end inner and make its cross at the same POSition as your second flat piece in the cross. That just leaves you with 1 more crossed piece at each end which goes lower and further forward than the first crossed piece you put in at both ends. You can use trial and error or use the program for 2 steps, putting in the data from the first piece after you do the height set/test and place it where you want it. The top flat pieces only follow the level of the flat inner so no need for the program for them.

Work in progress
NOTE: My nick and image are from a company. That company allows people to use them both as long as they get permission and a licence. I have that and a certificate to prove it.

"These are not the Druids you are looking for..."
2 users thanked The_Black_Rieder for this useful post.
LazTopCat on 3/26/2018(UTC), MAJI_DHS on 6/21/2018(UTC)
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